Frequently Asked Questions

It often is where heat and air leaks meet: the underside of a roof deck with ducts in the attic, metal buildings, and tight spaces. On an open attic floor, sealed and topped with blown-in, you can usually reach the same R-value for less. We price the options side by side.

Tom Green County is in Climate Zone 3. The 2015 code table asks for R-38 in new ceilings, and ENERGY STAR suggests R-49 for an existing attic with no insulation, or adding R-38 where three to four inches are already there.

Mostly because of bad installs: foam sprayed too thick in one pass, put over roof leaks, or used without a plan for attic ventilation or moisture. Some buyers and inspectors also want to see the roof deck. Careful prep, the right foam and a written spec avoid most of those problems.

Several chemical companies make the two-part foam systems that installers use, in both open-cell and closed-cell versions. What matters more for your house is that the product fits the space, is applied at the right thickness, and is covered where code calls for a thermal or ignition barrier.

National figures from HomeGuide put it at $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot installed, or $3,000 to $8,000 for a typical attic. Foam type, thickness, access and removal of old material change the total. Your written estimate is the price.

Yes. Closed-cell foam on the steel is the usual choice because it insulates and stops condensation at once. We look at the building, how you heat or cool it, and what is stored inside before we quote.

If the ducts and air handler are in the attic, foaming the roof deck brings them inside the conditioned space. If the attic is open, easy to reach and the ducts are in good shape, sealing the ceiling and blowing in loose fill usually costs less. We price both when both make sense.

Closed-cell foam, at R-5 to R-7 per inch in HomeGuide's figures, compared with R-3.5 to R-3.7 for open-cell. Total R-value depends on thickness, so the quote lists both.

Foam itself is not food for mold, but trapped moisture behind any insulation can cause problems. That is why we fix leaks first and choose the foam type with moisture in mind.

HomeGuide recommends 24 hours or more. We confirm the timing for your product and space before the job.

Texas uses the energy chapter of the 2015 International Residential Code statewide. In Climate Zone 3, which includes Tom Green County, that table lists R-38 for ceilings in new work.

Often yes, if the old insulation is dry and clean. We seal the ceiling first where we can reach it, then blow new material over the top to the target depth.

Sealing the ceiling cuts uncontrolled leakage from the attic. Bath and kitchen fans still need to vent outside, and we check that they do.

Most blown-in attic jobs take a day or less. Roof-deck foam takes longer because of prep and cure time.

It depends on use. To stop condensation, a modest layer of closed-cell often does it; a cooled shop usually needs more. The quote lists the planned thickness.

Usually the old faced fiberglass has to come down first so the foam can bond to the steel. We check its condition during the visit.

Closed-cell foam on the panels dampens rain and hail noise noticeably, though it will not silence a hailstorm.

Usually insulating alone is simple, but converting a barn to a heated shop or living space can bring permit and code requirements. Check with the city or county building office first.

Yes. Dense-pack cellulose or fiberglass can be blown in through small holes that are patched afterward.

Foam seals air as well as insulating, so it performs better in practice, but it costs more. Batts can work if they are installed carefully with a good air barrier.

The 2015 code table Texas uses lists R-20 or R-13 plus R-5 continuous insulation for wood-frame walls in Zone 3.

We insulate the stud cavity behind it and leave the drainage gap between the brick and the sheathing open.

In an attic, usually yes. It fills around obstructions and leaves fewer gaps than batts cut to fit.

Cellulose settles somewhat, and the depth is set to allow for that. Fiberglass settles very little.

Yes, if the old insulation is dry and clean. Wet or contaminated material should come out first.

Most attics are done in a day, including air sealing.

Only if it is wet, contaminated, moldy or badly damaged. Dry, clean insulation can stay and be topped up.

Most attic removals take a day, with sealing and new insulation the same day or the next.

They come out with the insulation. Talk to a pest control company about entry points so the problem does not return.

Not until it is tested. If it contains asbestos, removal goes to a licensed abatement contractor.